St Balikuddembe: A Hidden Shrine of Courage Along the Martyrs’ Trail

In the densely populated heart of Kampala’s Mengo-Kisenyi area stands the often-overlooked yet profoundly sacred St. Balikuddembe Site—a place that quietly preserves the legacy of three of Uganda’s earliest Catholic martyrs.

With Martyrs’ Day around the corner, this historical location is drawing renewed attention from pilgrims and believers seeking to retrace the footsteps of Uganda’s spiritual heroes.

The site honours Joseph Mukasa Balikuddembe, Athanasius Bazzeketta, and John Maria Mzee—three men whose acts of faith and defiance during the brutal persecution of Christians under Kabaka Mwanga have become etched in the nation’s spiritual consciousness.

Joseph Mukasa Balikuddembe, a royal official turned catechist, holds the distinction of being the first Catholic martyr in Uganda.

He was executed on November 15, 1885, after openly condemning Mwanga’s decision to kill Anglican Bishop James Hannington.

His outspokenness cost him his life, but secured his place in history.

Today, his memory is honoured not only at the Mengo-Kisenyi site but also near Nakivubo, between Ham Shopping Grounds and Owino Market, where a memorial marks the spot of his execution.

The market itself bears his name, embedding his story in the everyday life of Kampala.

Former parish catechist Gerald Walugembe Kyalimpa, a longtime custodian of the site's history, recalls the moment that elevated this location into a shrine of devotion.

On May 26, 1886, after a mass sentencing of Christian converts in Munyonyo, those condemned to death were held at Kabaka Mwanga’s palace in Mengo.

From there, they were marched to Namugongo for execution. Along the way, they passed the site where Balikuddembe had been killed.

It was here that Athanasius Bazzeketta, fully aware of his impending fate and moved by Balikuddembe’s martyrdom, requested to die on the same ground. His wish was granted. Today, both men are buried at this revered spot.

A short distance away, the story of John Maria Mzee deepens the spiritual gravity of the area. Mzee, the last Catholic martyr to be killed, initially fled persecution and lived in hiding for seven months.

It was only after seeking counsel from the French missionaries—Fathers Amans and Marpel—who had introduced him to Christianity, that he resolved to surrender to Mwanga.

He was executed near the Jugula stream. The site where his execution tools were discovered has been preserved as a holy place of remembrance.

The stream itself and a nearby tree have become symbols of healing for many pilgrims who come to pray, reflect, and seek divine intervention.

According to Walugembe, the martyrs' unwavering commitment offers lessons beyond history.

“They teach us the essence of faith without compromise,” he said. “People come here not just to remember but to be touched by the same courage that carried these men to their deaths.”

Each year, especially in the days leading to June 3—Uganda Martyrs’ Day—the St. Balikuddembe Site draws crowds of visitors.

Many walk barefoot to the shrine in acts of penance or petition, some kneeling in prayer near the twin graves of Balikuddembe and Bazzeketta, others quietly pouring water over their heads from the Jugula stream, hoping for miracles.

While Namugongo remains the most prominent pilgrimage destination during Martyrs’ Day celebrations, lesser-known sites like Mengo-Kisenyi hold equally potent narratives of conviction and grace.

For many faithful, these places are not merely footnotes in a larger story but intimate spaces where faith lives and breathes.

As Uganda prepares to mark this year’s Martyrs’ Day, the faithful are reminded that the trail of the martyrs runs through not only grand basilicas but also the narrow alleys of Kampala—where three young converts once stood tall in the face of royal wrath and walked into eternity with heads held high.